Philosophy
Experience nature as it is and adapt to it. Exploring new places and climbing in free the most difficult walls in the world, without a trace of own passage.
Accomplishments
Patagonia:
- First ascent on West wall Egger Tower 1200 m 7a A2 WI4
- Concatenation of Aguja de la Silla and Cerro Fitz Roy 2000m 6a+ M5
- New route on Aguja Saint-Exupery 700m 7a
Pakistan: first ascent on South-West wall Uli Biaho Tower (6109m) 6b A0 M4
Yosemite (USA): free ascent of route “Free Rider” on Capitan 1000m 7c max
Wenden (CH): opening and first free ascent of “Infinite Jest” (700m, 8b), “Coelophysis” (700m 8a+), “Portami via” (350m 7c+), first free ascent of “Ibicus” (400m, 8b)
Canton Ticino (CH): opening and first free ascent of “Il mito della Caverna” (350m, 8a) and “Non è un paese per vecchi” (450m, 7c+), free ascent of “Ritorni Notturni” (350m, 8a+) and “Super cirill” (350m, 8a+ trad)
Peak district (UK): free ascent of Gaia (E8 6c) and Masters Edge (E7 6c)
Sport and traditional climbing: worked routs until 8b+, on sight and flash until 7c+/8a, many routs in traditional style.
Proudest Moment in life
After 3 years of attempts and 150 days spent in Patagonia I have come on top of Torre Egger. An adventure and an ascent that has worked hard, where we gave our best: trying, failing and trying again. Thanks to Matteo Bernasconi and Luca Terraced for sharing with me some unforgettable moments.
Cause(s)
As mountaineer I have long supported the cause of “do not put bolts next to cracks”, to preserve the playing field for those – like me – who loves to climbs putting nuts and friends.
Favorite KONG products
Quickdraw Argon
Carabiner Argon screw sleeve
Bag Genius
Helmet Leef
Hammer Speleagle
Inspirations (other climbers)
Tommy Caldwell, for his way of life climbing and his approach to the walls; for me is a great friend as well as a way of life.
Nico Favresse, because he does extraordinary things and he always has fun.
Stefan Glowacz, for him versatility and the philosophy of “by fair means”.
Words to live by
BON, SI FA!
Things that make me really happy
Climb a challenging mountain
Close a route at my limit
See my girlfriends
Favourite routes
Infinite jest, Wenden
Via attraverso il pesce, Marmolada
Free Rider, Yosemite
Weakness
Too many…if I had to choose a couple I say that I dislike ice climbing at cold, and I am lacking of the explosive force for rock climbing.
Three Things I Always Pack
Food: especiallt the “schiacciatine” and a good-luck energy bar
Gloves and hat
Tape to bandage hands and fingers